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North Menan Butte Trail (“R”Mountain)

By Marc Bowen

 

Volcanic Tuff Cone

In east Idaho near the town of Menan are twin buttes known as the North and South Menan Buttes. The north butte is also known by locals as “R” Mountain because of the big white ‘R’ painted on its north face. The south butte (the smaller of the two buttes ) is privately owned. The north butte is publicly owned and is designated as a National Natural Landmark. The buttes are two of the worlds largest volcanic tuff cones.

I wrote about these tuff cones and hiking this area in great detail on my blog last year. You can read that post by clicking this link: Hiking The Volcano – N Menan Butte

Hiking The Butte

 

ButteTrail
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

This hike is 4.2 miles out and back with 1,089 feet of elevation gain. The trail leads up the west face and then follows the rim around the entire crater and back. The hike to the rim of the crater from the trailhead will get your heart pumping. I have hiked this trail 6 times in the past 8 weeks (in the months of April and May). It’s close to my home and I can hike it early in the morning and be home by 9 or 10am. It’s a great workout and is good preparation for some more difficult hikes in the months to come.

The images in this post I shot over a period of two months. The images are dated as I thought it would be fun to show the surrounding landscape as the seasons change.

 

MButte11
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

Coming up the west side of the butte you know your near the top when you get to a line of steel posts connected to each other with a chain (above image to the right of the big rock formation). The footing is very poor in places and the chain gives you something to hold on to.

 

NMenanButteCave
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/23/18)

Because of the geology of this place caves and varied rock formations are a common sight. This one (above) is to the left of the trail near the top.

 

NButteTrailHeadParkinglot
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/30/18)

Just past that formation looking back down the slope at the trailhead parking area.

 

MButte3
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

Once you’ve made it to the top of the trail you will be standing on the rim of the buttes cratered center. Now you’re on the rim trail and can go left (above photo), right (scroll down to next photo) or even walk a trail down through the middle of the crater (not shown).

MButte2
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

I have arranged my photos in a sequence as if hiking to the right around the crater. As you hike this direction you can see (in this photo above) across the crater into the valley to the east toward Rigby, Ririe and the distant hills.

 

MenanButteSouthIF
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/23/18)

As the trail curves around the south side of the butte you can see South Menan Butte, the town of Menan is across the river in the middle right in the above photo and Idaho Falls is in the middle distance at the base of the hills.

MButte8
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

If you compare this panoramic image (above) with the one above it you can see the difference 5 weeks makes. Crops are growing and summer colors and foliage have arrived.

 

MenanButteNE
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/23/18)

Looking back to the east from the trail across the crater, part of the valley between Rexburg and Rigby can be seen.

 

WindBowl
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

As the rim trail curves east you will arrive at a formation of rocks called the ‘Wind Bowl’. This is a fantastic formation and almost seems like the landscape should be part of another planet. Great area to do some ‘bouldering’ … Looking south across the bowl you can again see South Butte.

MButte7
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

There is a time span of six weeks between the above two photos.

Below is a video clip of the Wind Bowl recorded on 4/10/18.  ‘click’ to play

 

MButte6
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

Above is a another photo of the Wind Bowl from a different perspective.

Below is the most recent video clip of the Wind Bowl.

 

MButte10
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

(above photo) Looking east towards Rigby and Ririe and the point where the Henrys Fork and South Fork of the Snake River come together. You can see some of the current flooding. Snow melt has caused all the rivers and streams to run at higher than normal levels the last month or so.

Tetons
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

Again in the above photo the view is to the east as this is the east side of the butte. Part of the Teton mountain range can be seen on the horizon.

 

MButte5
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

I took the above photo as I hiked the trail around the north side of the butte heading west. This is looking south across the crater to the south rim and South Butte beyond that.

 

MButte4
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

If you look north from the trail on the north rim the St. Anthony Sand Dunes can be seen in the distance with the city of Rexburg to the right of that (above photo).

 

ArcoDesert
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

In the above photo I am looking west across the desert towards the Lost River Range of mountains.

 

RockForm
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

Another one of the many rock formations in the area and another view into the buttes crater.

 

NMenanButteTrail
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

I shot the above image as I was hiking south along the west rim of the crater. The orange-colored rock formation across the crater on the other rim is the area where the Wind Bowl is located.

 

NicoleMenanButte2CROP
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/15/18)

My daughter Nicole (above photo) joined me on the May 15th hike. Looking out over the parking lot below and the Deer Parks Wildlife Management Area across the highway.

Below is a video clip shot from the northwest rim in April of this year.

 

MButte9
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

Another view (above photo) looking down on the parking lot / trailhead and the Deer Parks WMA.

 

DeerParksWMA
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/23/18)

Above is another view from the same area but shot over a month earlier.

 

MenanButteTreeCROP
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/30/18)
MButte12
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

The above two images were shot a month apart at slightly different angles.

 

MButte1
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

I shot this last image as I was headed back down the west face of the butte.

As I mentioned before I usually hike this trail early mornings with cool temperatures, beautiful light and colors surrounding me, and few people around. Sometimes I’ve had the butte all to myself and its a perfect time to change perspectives and remember whats most important in my life. Just being outside breathing the fresh air and having the sun shine upon me energizes my soul and changes my mood for the better.

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Darby Canyon Wind Cave Trail

By Marc Bowen

 

First Attempt

Yesterday morning I drove to the Darby Canyon parking lot arriving about 7:30am. It rained the whole drive there. The night before I had checked the forecast saw the forcast for rain but it was supposed to quit raining around 7am. Well by 7:30 it was still raining hard, no sign of stopping and the road in was very muddy. No other cars were in the parking area when I arrived. I decided I would tip my seat back, set my alarm and sleep an hour. If it was still raining hard I would head home and try again the next day. One hour later it was still pouring so I started the car and was heading out of the parking lot just as a big gray moose stepped out in front of me, looked at me than trotted across the road and into the trees. That was cool. I’m glad I was able to stop and enjoy the sight of this huge, beautiful animal moving across the road in front of me.

Getting There

It wasn’t raining this morning when I left home but the skies were overcast. I left home around 5:30am, arrived in Driggs about 6:30am. About halfway between Driggs and Victor I turned left on 3000 South. From the Darby Canyon sign there is about four miles of pavement and nearly five miles of dirt road to the Darby Canyon parking lot. The road wasn’t as muddy as yesterday and I arrived at the parking lot about 7:00am.

 

DarbyCanyonParkingLot
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Again mine was the only car in the parking area. There was definitely a wet chilly feel to the air as I got my gear ready, locked my car, took inventory and made sure I wasn’t forgetting anything. I stashed my car keys in a safe place ( ruin my day if I lost them along the trail somewhere).

 

The Trail

  • Location – South Fork Darby Canyon
  • Hike (R/T) miles – 5.2
  • Elevation gain – 1800 feet
  • Difficulty rating – 8.80 (moderate)

**above info provided by TetonHikingTrails.com

 

DarbyCanyonWindCavesTrailhead
Photo by: Marc Bowen

The trailhead begins at the edge of the parking area. This trail prohibits the use of bikes as the area is designated wilderness. The wilderness marker is just up the trail a ways.

 

DarbyCanyonWindcavesTrail
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Within the first quarter-mile I came to a clearing where I could see Darby Creek and the snow-line not too far up the mountain side. I was pretty sure I would be hiking in snow sooner than later. Even though I had my doubts about being able to get all the way in to the wind cave I was determined to go as far as I was able. The air was fresh, cool and clean and it was wonderful to be on the trail again regardless of the outcome.

 

DarbyCreekBridge
Photo by: Marc Bowen

I crossed this bridge over Darby Creek just as it began to rain a little. (above photo)

 

darbycreek
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Standing on the Darby Creek bridge I shot this image looking upstream.

 

WildernessSign
Photo by: Marc Bowen

A few turns in the trail later I arrived at the boundary sign for the Jedediah Wilderness and a slippery crossing of South Fork Darby Creek.

 

SouthForkDarbyCreekCROP
Photo by: Marc Bowen

I carefully took this shot (above) while laying across two poles over the water of the stream.

WindCaveTrailDarbyCreek
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Just up the trail I entered a small gorge and began a rather steep climb. The trail climbs about 1200 feet in about a mile and a half as it enters South Fork Darby Canyon.

DarbyCreekPano
Photo by: Marc Bowen

(above) Panoramic looking down into the gorge.

Video clip below of the gorge

 

LedgeOverCreek
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Another shot into the gorge (above) and you can see into the main canyon beyond where the trailhead is located. From this point on just about every switchback had deadfall that hadn’t been cleared from the trail yet. I had to climb over , under or around much of it. It was mostly on the steep northwest facing slope. Everything was wet so it made for some careful traversing.

DBCTrail
Photo by: Marc Bowen

(Above) where the trail wasn’t wet and muddy it was covered in snow. I only saw one set of human tracks and a pair of what I assume were dog tracks ahead of me, probably several days old. There were also a fairly fresh set of moose tracks heading up the canyon. These sets of tracks were a good thing for several reasons. One, it gave me an idea where the trail was in areas where the trail was covered in snow. Two, the snow had a hard crust on it but was melting underneath so by observing where the moose chose to place it’s feet I could tell whether the surface of the snow would hold my weight or not.

 

DBSwitchback
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Some slopes were fairly bare of snow with just some random patches. I took a break on the edge of this switchback to drink, eat a snack and put my outer jacket shell on as it had begun to rain. It wasn’t pouring so I didn’t put my heavy poncho on. With the jacket I was still able to access my camera (with rain cover) attached to the front of my backpack shoulder strap.

DarbyCanyonWindcaves1
Photo by: Marc Bowen

(Above photo) looking up the canyon from the east rim. The wind cave can be seen near the top of the other side of the canyon.

DarbyCanyonPanoCROP
Photo by: Marc Bowen

This (above) is the halfway point of the hike. From here the trail continues south and then forks to the right around the top of the canyon and back to a series of switchbacks heading up toward the cave.

WaterFallDarbyCanyon
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Water runs out of the mouth of the cave and down the cliffs below (above)

DBWindCave
Photo by: Marc Bowen

There was still plenty of snow between me and the wind cave. I could already see from here that if I was lucky enough to make it all the around to the wind cave it would be too treacherous to try to get up to it and inside. Snow was piled deep in front and raging water running underneath.

Below is a video clip showing both the cave and the waterfalls underneath.

DarbyCanyonSnow
Photo by: Marc Bowen

I was able to make my way a little farther along the canyon rim but at this point the trail went underneath a slide of deep snow and no more tracks that would indicate where the trail was. The tracks here are my tracks as I carefully walked farther along. But it was steep and I kept breaking through the crust into deep snow up to my waist. I got a bad feeling about going any farther so decided  this was where I would turn around and head back down the mountain.

DarbyCanyonWindcavesTrail2
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Hiking back down the trail.

CanyonWaterfall
Photo by: Marc Bowen

As I neared the part of the trail that drops back down into the main canyon I noticed water from snow melt coming down the mountain on the otherside of the canyon.

DBCFungi
Photo by: Marc Bowen

Found this orange fungus in the canyon bottom and thought I would take a pic to see what it was later.

I met several groups of hikers headed up the trail as I headed down. Some asked questions about the trail ahead and I warned them about the deadfall and deep snow.

Even though I was unable to get all the way to the cave it was still an enjoyable hike. I didnt mind the rain, mud and snow. My whole purpose today was to get out and hike and satisfy my wanderlust. Finishing this hike was secondary.

 

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