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North Menan Butte Trail (“R”Mountain)

By Marc Bowen

 

Volcanic Tuff Cone

In east Idaho near the town of Menan are twin buttes known as the North and South Menan Buttes. The north butte is also known by locals as “R” Mountain because of the big white ‘R’ painted on its north face. The south butte (the smaller of the two buttes ) is privately owned. The north butte is publicly owned and is designated as a National Natural Landmark. The buttes are two of the worlds largest volcanic tuff cones.

I wrote about these tuff cones and hiking this area in great detail on my blog last year. You can read that post by clicking this link: Hiking The Volcano – N Menan Butte

Hiking The Butte

 

ButteTrail
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

This hike is 4.2 miles out and back with 1,089 feet of elevation gain. The trail leads up the west face and then follows the rim around the entire crater and back. The hike to the rim of the crater from the trailhead will get your heart pumping. I have hiked this trail 6 times in the past 8 weeks (in the months of April and May). It’s close to my home and I can hike it early in the morning and be home by 9 or 10am. It’s a great workout and is good preparation for some more difficult hikes in the months to come.

The images in this post I shot over a period of two months. The images are dated as I thought it would be fun to show the surrounding landscape as the seasons change.

 

MButte11
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

Coming up the west side of the butte you know your near the top when you get to a line of steel posts connected to each other with a chain (above image to the right of the big rock formation). The footing is very poor in places and the chain gives you something to hold on to.

 

NMenanButteCave
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/23/18)

Because of the geology of this place caves and varied rock formations are a common sight. This one (above) is to the left of the trail near the top.

 

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Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/30/18)

Just past that formation looking back down the slope at the trailhead parking area.

 

MButte3
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

Once you’ve made it to the top of the trail you will be standing on the rim of the buttes cratered center. Now you’re on the rim trail and can go left (above photo), right (scroll down to next photo) or even walk a trail down through the middle of the crater (not shown).

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Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

I have arranged my photos in a sequence as if hiking to the right around the crater. As you hike this direction you can see (in this photo above) across the crater into the valley to the east toward Rigby, Ririe and the distant hills.

 

MenanButteSouthIF
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/23/18)

As the trail curves around the south side of the butte you can see South Menan Butte, the town of Menan is across the river in the middle right in the above photo and Idaho Falls is in the middle distance at the base of the hills.

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Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

If you compare this panoramic image (above) with the one above it you can see the difference 5 weeks makes. Crops are growing and summer colors and foliage have arrived.

 

MenanButteNE
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/23/18)

Looking back to the east from the trail across the crater, part of the valley between Rexburg and Rigby can be seen.

 

WindBowl
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

As the rim trail curves east you will arrive at a formation of rocks called the ‘Wind Bowl’. This is a fantastic formation and almost seems like the landscape should be part of another planet. Great area to do some ‘bouldering’ … Looking south across the bowl you can again see South Butte.

MButte7
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

There is a time span of six weeks between the above two photos.

Below is a video clip of the Wind Bowl recorded on 4/10/18.  ‘click’ to play

 

MButte6
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

Above is a another photo of the Wind Bowl from a different perspective.

Below is the most recent video clip of the Wind Bowl.

 

MButte10
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

(above photo) Looking east towards Rigby and Ririe and the point where the Henrys Fork and South Fork of the Snake River come together. You can see some of the current flooding. Snow melt has caused all the rivers and streams to run at higher than normal levels the last month or so.

Tetons
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

Again in the above photo the view is to the east as this is the east side of the butte. Part of the Teton mountain range can be seen on the horizon.

 

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Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

I took the above photo as I hiked the trail around the north side of the butte heading west. This is looking south across the crater to the south rim and South Butte beyond that.

 

MButte4
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

If you look north from the trail on the north rim the St. Anthony Sand Dunes can be seen in the distance with the city of Rexburg to the right of that (above photo).

 

ArcoDesert
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

In the above photo I am looking west across the desert towards the Lost River Range of mountains.

 

RockForm
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

Another one of the many rock formations in the area and another view into the buttes crater.

 

NMenanButteTrail
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/10/18)

I shot the above image as I was hiking south along the west rim of the crater. The orange-colored rock formation across the crater on the other rim is the area where the Wind Bowl is located.

 

NicoleMenanButte2CROP
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/15/18)

My daughter Nicole (above photo) joined me on the May 15th hike. Looking out over the parking lot below and the Deer Parks Wildlife Management Area across the highway.

Below is a video clip shot from the northwest rim in April of this year.

 

MButte9
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

Another view (above photo) looking down on the parking lot / trailhead and the Deer Parks WMA.

 

DeerParksWMA
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/23/18)

Above is another view from the same area but shot over a month earlier.

 

MenanButteTreeCROP
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 4/30/18)
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Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

The above two images were shot a month apart at slightly different angles.

 

MButte1
Photo by: Marc Bowen (shot on 5/30/18)

I shot this last image as I was headed back down the west face of the butte.

As I mentioned before I usually hike this trail early mornings with cool temperatures, beautiful light and colors surrounding me, and few people around. Sometimes I’ve had the butte all to myself and its a perfect time to change perspectives and remember whats most important in my life. Just being outside breathing the fresh air and having the sun shine upon me energizes my soul and changes my mood for the better.

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Phelps Lake – Death Canyon

By Marc Bowen

 

Phelps Lake Loop Trail To Phelps Lake Overlook

  • Trail Location – Laurance S Rockefeller Preserve
  • Round trip – 9.5 miles
  • Trailhead Elevation – 6405 feet
  • Total Elevation Gain – 870 feet
  • Highest Elevation – 7200 feet
  • Trail Difficulty Rating – 10.94 Moderate to Strenuous

 

When thinking about where to hike this month I considered the Alaska Basin hike from the Driggs Idaho side of the Tetons. But I swear I am still recovering from my hike into Holly Lake last month. I was having a hard time getting excited about doing a strenuous hike this time around and felt like doing more of a leisurely stroll through the mountains. So I thought about Phelps Lake. I hiked into this lake last fall. There are several trails into the area and most of them are moderately strenuous. It’s a beautiful place and definitely worth a second visit. So I mentioned it to my daughter Nicole and not having been there before herself, she was excited to check it out. To read the post from my hike in this area last fall click Phelps Lake, Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve.

 

Getting There

From Jackson turn left at Moose Junction onto Moose-Wilson Road and drive 3.6 miles south to the turn-off for the preserve which is on the left hand side of the road.

We arrived in the preserve’s parking lot early morning to find a half dozen cars there before us. Make sure you start this hike early in the day because the parking lot fills up fast!  Once parked we grabbed our gear and headed across the sagebrush meadow to the visitor center a few hundred yards from the parking lot. There we checked in at the registration box, grabbed a complimentary trail guide of the area and headed up the trail. There are 4 different trails you can use to hike into Phelps lake. We chose the 1.6 mile Lake Creek Trail for this hike. The trail follows a beautiful stream through a mixed forest of spruce, fir and lodgepole pine. It took us about 30 minutes to reach the lake.

NicolePhelpsLake
Photo by: Marc Bowen – Nicole Klingler shooting Phelps Lake

Phelps Lake has a surface area of 750 acres and is the 6th largest lake in Grand Teton National Park. From the southern shore looking north across the lake we could see the mouth of Death Canyon.

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Photo by: Marc Bowen – Phelps Lake

Elevation at Phelps Lake is 6633 feet. The surface of the lake was very calm and created some nice reflections of 10,552 foot Albright Peak.

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Photo by Nicole Klingler – Marc Bowen shooting Phelps Lake
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Photo by: Marc Bowen – Nicole Klingler on bridge at Phelps Lake outlet

This (above) is a new bridge that was built late last fall and provides several platforms and seating areas for fishing or soaking in the scenery.

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Photo by: Nicole Klingler – Marc Bowen shooting from bridge at Phelps Lake outlet

As I have mentioned in previous posts I carry about 20lbs of gear on my day hikes. I usually hike alone so I try to have what I would need if I should have an emergency and need to spend the night on the mountain.

Phelps_LakeCreek
Photo by: Marc Bowen – Phelps Lake outlet

Our plan was to hike along the eastern shore (2.2 miles) until we reached the north shore of Phelps lake then take Death Canyon Trail up to the overlook which would be another mile each way.

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Photo by: Marc Bowen – Phelps Lake

Some of the scenery as we hiked around the lake towards the eastern shore.

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Photo by: Marc Bowen – Nicole Klingler on Jump Rock, Phelps Lake

About 1.5 miles up the east shore of the lake we came to a rock they call ‘Jump Rock’ or ‘Jumping Rock’. This rock is 25-30 feet high and is a popular place for hikers to cool off by jumping into the deep cool water below. If we had planned a little better we would have worn our swim suits under our clothes and brought a couple of towels…It would have been fun to drop off that rock into the lake.

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Photo by: Marc Bowen – Nicole Klingler on Jump Rock, Phelps Lake

By this point in the hike the sky was filling with these cotton-like clouds and the resulting reflections produced a serene zen-like atmosphere.

NicoleJumpRock
Photo by: Marc Bowen – Nicole Klingler on Jump Rock, Phelps Lake
DeathCanyon3
Photo by: Marc Bowen – Phelps Lake & Death Canyon

The view of Death Canyon from the top of Jump Rock Is breath-taking. The ‘U’ shaped canyon was formed by retreating glaciers. If you look closely at the photo above you can see a sandy beach on the lake’s north shore.

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Photo by: Marc Bowen – Phelps Lake

I took the above photo while standing on a narrow strip of beach on the north shore looking back across the lake to the south shore.

NicoleDeathCanyonTrail
Photo by: Marc Bowen – Nicole Klingler on Death Canyon Trail

We left the beach on the north shore and began the climb up Death Canyon Trail toward the Phelps Lake Overlook. At this point we ran into some men with horses and pack mules headed up into Death Canyon.

 

DeathCanyonTrailDeer
Photo by: Marc Bowen – Death Canyon Trail

This Mule Deer doe (above) had 2 fawns with her. She slowly made her way down the trail toward us I think more concerned about all the hikers coming down the trail behind her then she was with us.

PhelpsLakeOverlook
Photo by: Marc Bowen – Phelps Lake from Death Canyon Trail

We finally reached the overlook, took some photos and then headed back the way we came. From this overlook you can see the lake, ‘Sleeping Indian Mountain’ and Jackson Hole in the distance.

This hike was a pleasant 5 hour round-trip for us and we will definitely be back. Next time we won’t forget our swim suits!